Cabane de l'A Neuve

Cabane de l'A Neuve (2735m, 8973ft), in the peaceful Val Ferret, gives you some amazing views: opposite you rises Mont Dolent (3828m, 12559ft), at the top of which intersect the Swiss, French, and Italian borders.

[Additions (italics) courtesy David Lauder, Nov-2005]

1 - The hut

Val Ferret is one of the Alps' best preserved valleys. Contrary to neighbouring resorts such as Verbier or Chamonix, resorts that have given in to tourism, skiing, and mountain climbing in large numbers, the village of La Fouly, the "capital" of Val Ferret, has left civilization behind. It's one of my favourite places, a welcome shelter far from the crowds you find elsewhere in the Alps.

The first time I went there, in the month of September, no one was taking care of the hut any longer and I didn't see another person the whole day I was there. On another occasion, in the month of May, after a winter with very little snow, I spent hours watching avalanches making their way down Mont Dolent.

Cabane de l'A Neuve is a gem of a hut. I'm not really able to judge just how inviting or hospitable it is because I don't sleep inside huts, but A Neuve has always had an excellent reputation. From the outside, its traditional architectural style and red-and-white striped shutters are the marks of an unmistakable style. And, as far as the view is concerned, Mont Dolent rises to 3828m (12559ft) but with its impressive North face it bears comparison with any other alpine "4000".

At the village of La Fouly, you take the road that goes down to the Camping des Glaciers. You reach a bridge that spans the Drance, cross the campsite, and then make your way through an idyllic forest for a few minutes. Note how pleasant it is to walk on the carpet of moss and needles that cushions your every step. Once you're outside the forest, the path starts to rise in the middle of shrubs on a very arid soil judiciously named The Desert.

2 - Mont Dolent

Once the bushes disappear, the path gets increasingly zigzaggy as you get closer to the river Areuse de l'A Neuve and a rocky peak. Chains make climbing up the peak easier. There's also a path that skirts around the rock on the left, but, because of the glacier's flaking moraine, the path is deteriorating with the years and it's best to be mindful of the ground your feet are tredding.

Once you're at the top of the rock, you take the bridge over the torrent. In the off season, if there's still a lot of snow, it can be difficult to reach the other side. Because the bridge is invisible or removed during the winter season, you have to risk crossing the layer of snow covering the river. Depending on how solid it is, it may sometimes be wiser to cross in the upstream area. Between the months of July and October, crossing the river is of no concern.

From here, there's another 650 meters - a little less than half the total difference in altitude - to go to reach the hut. Most of the way, depending on the season, marmots and blueberries will accompany you as you walk along the Les Essettes turfs. Higher up, you'll be walking along stone-drains or snow. To reach the hut on its promontory, you can choose between two paths. One circles along the left until you reach the hut - this path seems to be the "official" one since it appears on the national map. The other, a "direttissima" I'd taken some ten years ago, is found in one of the promontory's crevices. Chains make the the climb easy but I don't know if it's always possible to take this variant.

Once you've made your way to A Neuve, keep me in mind while you're savouring one of the fruit pies. I personally haven't been lucky enough to enjoy the new caretaker's cooking, but several websites, including Markus Jaton's, sing its praises. Drop me a line or two if you can put your knife and fork down for a minute!

It'll take you two hours to get back down... or four if you decided to stop and taste the blueberries along the way! Poles are useful in the lower parts, where the risk of slipping is increased due to the arid soil.

At the end of July 2005, the gardien's home-made cakes and flans at the hut were excellent. L'A is a local dialect word that means l'eau although in late July 2005, the water supply to the hut had dried up due to insufficient winter snow.