In a glimpse:
- Start: Goppenstein (major rail node)
- Duration (roundtrip): 8-9 hours
- Difficulty: T3 - Challenging Mountain Hikes
- Last done: October 2010
- Local weather forecast:
- KMZ for Google Earth
- Profile (roundtrip):
Bibliography:
Links:
Niwen hike reports on Hikr.org.
Niwen (Einigs Alichji), Faldumalp
On a quest for the prettiest autumn colours, I had found some magnificent photos of glowing red mountain sides on the braendji.ch website. These photos had been taken at Faldumalp and Niwenalp. A few more investigations and I decided to head for a peak with a totally unpronounceable name: Einigs Alichji (2769 m, 9085 ft). For pronunciation's sake, let's refer to it here simply by its other name, "Niwen". Rising above the two previously named alpine meadow areas, it seemed to be a fairly popular walk in the Haut-Valais region, although little known to the French-speaking population. I set off therefore for Goppenstein and the Lötschental.
Needless to say I was not disappointed. In autumn time, Lötschental is hiker's heaven. Sportively speaking too, this was quite some outing with its fair share of physical effort and heart-pounding climbs. Indeed, between the station at Goppenstein and the cross on the top of Niwen, there's a 1550 m climb to get the better of. Only to be done if you're physically up to it.
Despite being wedged between two mountain sides, Goppenstein is a major railway junction at the entrance to the Lötschental. Thus, this walk is perfectly suited to those who like to use public transport. Alternatively, the car park to the right of the road upon arrival costs about 5 CHF per day. The yellow footpath markings take you along the road (pavement) up to the entrance of the tunnel. Here, keep following the marking along a smaller road that goes around the tunnel to the right. Follow the bend left. Shortly afterwards, you'll find the real beginning of the footpath. The way to Faldumalp is indicated on the signpost but not the time needed to get there (doubtless so as not to dishearten walkers because this first part of the walk is going to be quite something). Judge for yourselves: Goppenstein is at an altitude of 1216 m, and Faldumalp is at 2037 m. A climb of over 800 m without any real warm-up.
And indeed, the hard work starts right away. The steep and fairly narrow path climbs up the west side of the valley. Up until two chalets at about 1500 m, it leads through deciduous trees in between the alpine meadows. Near the chalets, make sure to keep to the marked out path because many other paths lead off right and left, and it's easy to be misled. The evergreens are now starting to show up even though the path mostly avoids the woods. After 1½ hours of intense physical effort, you'll reach a ... road, or more exactly a wide passable track which leads to Faldumalp. The path crosses the track only to head straightaway up towards the avalanche shields. When you come across the road again, follow it until you reach the beautiful hamlet of Faldumalp (1 h 40 minutes) where the view out towards the Bietschhorn is stunning (you should be able to make out the Bietschhornhütte). You can take a great photo with the Norvegian looking chapel in the foreground. All of the Lötschental region unfolds in front of you, in particular the glaciers in the distance and the recently visited Anenhütte.
Faldumalp is definitely magical with its autumn colours. Next to the chapel, a signpost with a great many directions on it tells you that Niwen lies another 2½ hours away. It also gives times for 'Ferden 1h20' and 'Goppenstein 2h10'. On my way down, I would opt for the detour via Ferden just to avoid going back down such a steep path.
The road leads up towards the village. When you get to the last chalet, a path heads off along the bank (Horiläger). With a bit of luck you'll come across the local sheep here which look so funny with their black faces and long thick wool. This part of the walk is superb in the autumn, with the reds, oranges and greens of the alders, and even the yellows of the larches. At the end of the valley, the abrupt silhouette of the Faldumrothorn stands out. We'll be getting quite near to it soon since the Niwen is the neighbouring peak, separated solely by the Faldumpass. Further right, the Restirothorn is even more abrupt.
The path now starts getting steeper as it gets closer to avalanche shields. Some of these are "typical" avalanche shields but others are formed of platforms held up to low walls. The path weaves its way between the shields up to the point at 2585 m (on the map) which marks the start of the Stritungrat ridge that leads up to the Niwen. The ridge is easy to follow, except in a couple of places where hands come in useful. If the weather is good, it'll be fine. But do take care if there still snow around on the northern side. The first summit on the ridge is at 2729 m. A kind of concrete tumulus has been built there. Since time was getting on, I left my rucksack here so as to speed on up to the Niwen. The Stritungrat ridge is now called the Niwungrat. Once past the secondary summit at 2757 m, the way up to the cross at the top is easier (a little under 4 hours in all - in fact more like 4½ hrs with the break in Faldumalp).
Because of its position at the entry of the Lötschental region, a Valais valley that intrudes into the Bernese Alps, views for the Niwen look out towards the nearby Valais and the Bernese Oberland. The first part of the descent follows the same path back down to Faldumalp. Other routes are possible, e.g. via the Niwenpass, but they require mountaineering skills. Since I was still in good form upon arrival in Faldumalp, I deliberately choose the longer way down. The route via Ferden is easier on the joints since the wide, easy path leads gently down the mountain side, except when crossing the Dornbach stream. If you follow the markings properly, you'll end up at the bus stop in the centre of the village of Ferden where you can choose whether or not to miss out on the last 50 minutes back to the starting point by catching the bus or hitchhiking. Alternatively, cross the main street and follow the farm track down towards the river. You'll soon reach a field at Chastel and then enter a wood. It should be noted that about half way along, a sign recommends not to continue if it's raining because of possible rock fall. So beware, if you finish the walk in a storm it's better to catch the bus. The last part of this long walk takes you through the forest above the artificial Lonza lake and Lonza river. In the end the path comes down towards the main road and meets up with the small road from Goppenstein.
